From Damascus to Amman

We are now in an Internet cafe in Amman and there are many things to be said about our first glances at this city but first I need to recount the past days in Damascus and all the wonders we saw there. On Friday we began our cultural tour of the city, tried to get into the Omayyad mosque but were repeatedly rejected because of Ramadan and all the commotion that follows. We went to the archaeological museum and our jaws dropped at the wonders there (the first written alphabet known on earth) and all sorts of interesting pieces. Then on one of our walks through the old city we deliberately got lost and enjoyed it, wondering narrow little Aladdin streets with no idea where they were taking us. Then to our surprise, after having walked down a dead end street a little Arab b0y called to us and said 'do you want see Arab house'. After a little reflection of what this sinister kid was up to we finally accepted and were led through a narrow corridor into a large garden port inside, clean and in the centre were three Germans! They asked who we were and after mutual introductions we found out that those two girls and the guy were exchange students from Heidelberg studying Arabic in the University. That is a good example of how Damascus surprises you. We have on numerous occasions stumbled on a slightly decorated door in some sleazy alleyway and walked into a small palace like cafe. Our last day in Damascus before we left for Amman we were walking down the largest market in the old city looking for food, which is much harder than you think during Ramadan, and when we saw that our old 25 cent chawarma place was closed we chose what appeared to be the next best thing. we walked into some house, past a kitchen and a place where small cheese-breads were being made, up some dirty stairs and voila, a large fancy restaurant with a view over the Omayyad mosque. Hidden behind jewelry shops and sandal salesmen was a very decorated place to eat.
Gummi and went every night we stayed in Damascus to various Hammams, but one is by far our favourite. It is located in the Christian quarter where we usually tend to stay in the evenings because of the ambiance. Lively quarter, full of people our age and Syrian girls that have made quite an impression on us, they are very beautiful and although occasionally they are slightly concealed (much less in the christian quarter) its intriguing, leaving something to the imagination. But I've gotten ahead of myself, the Hammam I'm talking about, Hamman Bakri near Bab Touma, was more welcoming than we had expected. After having been wrapped up when we were done the two men that work there showed us some interest. One introduced himself as Ahmed, a very common name here along with Mohammed, very popular, and then said that the fatter of the two was Monsieur Soap. Mr. Soap said some laid back words in Arabic to Ahmed and proceeded to bring us tea but Ahmed continued saying that Monsieur Soap liked to drink and when he did he started dancing. Ahmed then showed us how Mr. Soap danced and we broke out into laughter. I asked if these two wanted to join us for a coffee or beer outside but Mr. Soap made it quite clear that it was whiskey or nothing. Unfortunately we weren't in the mood to sip whiskey in 30 degrees with Mr. Soap and left. We went back later, now we have friends in Syria!
On the alcohol front we two have shown a surprising lack of interest. The occasional Barada or Almaza beer in the evening but never to any real extent. It must be the fear of a hangover in this heat but never the less I have replaced it with a new respect for water and tea! The food though, now there is something worth writing about. The best Falafels Ive had, the best Arabic food, the best Chawarmas and it helps that a meal is rarely more that 2-3 euros and a single falafel or chawarma range from 20-50 cents. Here's a list of what we usually paid in Damascus although Amman is relatively more expensive.
Full meal in a restaurant: Under four euros
Taxi ride anywhere in Damascus: 50 cents
lodgings in a four star hotel: 30 euros
Single twin bed room in a cheap hostel: 5 euros
Hammam -massage: 1,2 euros
Hammam w. massage: 3 euros,
Chawarma small: 30 cents, large, 50 cents
Falafel: 20 cent
the list goes on and on.
The room I mentioned above was in fact an apartment we rented in Damascus with an extraordinary view. 9 $ a night. Good Deal

Now for Amman. I haven't really seen enough yet to form a real opinion but I'll tell you what struck me immediately once I arrived. But first the I must tell you about the trip from Damascus to Amman. We decided to take a taxi for approximately 25 euros across the border. The alternatives were sharing a cab for slightly less money or a bus more much less money but given that Paris Charles de gaulle airport - Charle de Gaule etoile is probably more that 25 euros we decided to be selfish and have an entire cab for ourselves. The Syrians drive like madmen and that is said without exaggeration. They accelerate when they see someone on the road in front of them much like a lion would roar to scare off some intruders. They drive like maniacs and so we had some qualms about taking a cab to Amman but it all worked out. Once we got the border controls I thought we were in for some trouble, foreign passports, two young guys, drug dogs and AK's but no, the only bother was that we had to go through some 6-7 different stops and controls before entering Jordan. Just the usual intolerable welcoming and warmth the Syrians tend to show. What is wrong with them, (all of this said in a highly sarcastic tone, maybe even with a little Borat accent). What we then proceeded to see once in Jordan and on our way to Amman was just a stretch of desert as far as the eye could reach. When we arrived in Amman what struck me was its resemblance to Cairo, but far less dirty and sleazy. Because of the surrounding desert the city was veiled with thick sandy smog and the houses mostly that boring beige sandy colour. But once we had checked into our 4 euro a night (believe me, its worth four euros, consists of two beds and a large ceiling fan, a 30 x 30 cm window and a TV the same size) and went downtown I began liking the city more. So far not as much as Damascus but like Rome this city is built on many different hills. It has more of a cosmopolitan feeling to it probably because it has been westernized far more but still beautiful.
I have more to say, but I'm hungry and I cant be bothered to write more just yet...

Behave and send me addressed if you want postcards

Love

Rutur